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Wiring ForumWiring HardwareHow to get it? › Wiring 2.0 Hardware

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Wiring 2.0 Hardware (Read 36765 times)
Reply #15 - 12/11/10 at 23:09:27

mga   Offline
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And, in some situations having the (male) headers below the board would be nice (as in the Mini).
 
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Reply #16 - 12/12/10 at 02:52:28

bhagman   Offline
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@mga: I've discussed this with a few people, and the idea for the headers is to have an option.  That is, when you order the board, you can get 1) no headers, 2) male header pins, 3) female header sockets, or 4) 0.1" screw-downs.  None are mounted in production - the option connectors are simply shipped with the board and must be soldered in.

RE: mowcius' concern for the reset switch - that switch is 1/2 the size of the typical Omron switch and we have used it on a few boards.

b
 
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Reply #17 - 12/12/10 at 02:53:57

mga   Offline
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Shipping your desired headers sounds like a good idea.
 
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Reply #18 - 12/12/10 at 19:14:25

mowcius   Offline
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Quote:
My vote would go for the male. There is convenience when having females to just put the cable in but later it can become a mess when you want to "go pro" with the project.

The idea is that you can use any of the three. The boards will require you to solder the headers/screw terminals. Perhaps pre-soldered sockets/screw terminals will be an option for the starting-out hobbyist who wants to flash a few LEDs but hasn't got onto soldering yet (or is not too good at it yet).

Might I also suggest an onboard LED. I know that wiring is often used mainly by people a bit more into it and beginners seem to go more towards the larger community of ard*ino but it's nice to have one. Perhaps give this a pad and solder jumper so it can be completely disconnected (so pullup resistors work correctly) or left enabled.

Mowcius

 

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Reply #19 - 12/12/10 at 20:26:19

bhagman   Offline
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bhagman points to the LED that is right next to the MCU (it is labeled "D15" - may want to rename that?).

I picked D15 on this board because D15 is on PORTC, TOSC2 - which is used for connecting an external crystal as an independent clock source for Timer/Counter 2.  People will rarely use this.

Using D15 as an input will still work.

Using D15 for "high current" (i.e. > 10 mA) applications will suffer, but only slightly.  In that situation, the user can de-solder the resistor for the LED to disable it.

b
 
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Reply #20 - 12/12/10 at 20:37:41

roypardi   Offline
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I agree @ the LED. It is often a useful diagnostic/sanity check.

While I'm here... any considerations of auto-reset a la arduino? I ask because I am working on a project now using both a 1st gen Wiring board and an arduino and being able to upload without pressing reset is helpful. I've also done some embedded pieces using arduino where access to the board was difficult so auto reset enabled me to easily program it 'in situ'

There are no doubt pros + cons on this.
 
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Reply #21 - 12/12/10 at 21:56:28

mowcius   Offline
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Quote:
b points to the LED that is right next to the MCU (it is labeled "D15" - may want to rename that?).

Heh, didn't notice that.

Perhaps 'LED' is a nice label to have Cheesy
 

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Reply #22 - 12/17/10 at 11:03:53

cosmogod   Offline
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I did love to see the following specs:
1)Atmega - (your choice)
2)32KB RAM
3)32KB EEEPROM
4)* bit Analog-Digital Converter
5)Input Capture and Output compare port (for sensors)
6) DC/Servo motor driver + (PWM)
7)LCD module with backlight(for debugging and selecting   
   programs)
8) Switch (Start & Stop)
9) Knob/joystick/buttons for Analog to digital projects(also   
    to use to select programs
10)LED/Speaker for user friendly indications.
11)RS-232/I2C/whatever you like for downloading and 
     interacting with the software.
12)Rechargeable Circuit.

and   low cost!!

Well, I am a bot tinkerer. Which includes toying around with AI & stuff like Display and gadgets. And This is what I fell should be a really great board (for technostuff)  that'll last for a century.

Cosmogod.

 
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Reply #23 - 12/22/10 at 18:03:23

bhagman   Offline
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Here's the latest layout for the Wiring S.

...
Wiring-S-V10-PartPlacement-RC2-1 by Rogue Robotics, on Flickr

Comments welcome.

b
 
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Reply #24 - 12/30/10 at 02:57:34

bhagman   Offline
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Routing is complete.

...
Wiring-S-V10-Routed-RC1-1-front by Rogue Robotics, on Flickr

...
Wiring-S-V10-Routed-RC1-1-back by Rogue Robotics, on Flickr

After some thought, I wonder whether a polarity diode on the barrel connector would be a good idea for protection.  I don't think that it would be a good idea at the raw input connector (VIN) though, since we'd like to keep that voltage as close as possible to the minimum required at the regulators.

Please let me know what you think.

b
 
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Reply #25 - 12/30/10 at 12:57:38

mowcius   Offline
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I would personally would't really care - I have made a few barrel jack adaptors which connect to batteries. Although I don't use them very often (temporary connection to a 9v battery for testing) if I did use one and I had messed it up, a protection diode could be helpful.

If you can make it relatively easy to get to and either THT or a large SMD package, people who are less likely to reverse polarity and need the lower dropout can replace it with a wire easily enough. Cost is negligible Wink
But then again, those people are probably using VIn anyway.

I can't say I have seen many 6v power adaptors. Most are 9v or 12v so I'd go for it.

Mowcius
 

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Reply #26 - 01/03/11 at 01:03:40

mowcius   Offline
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Just noticed how badly I managed to fail at writing that.
I must apologise Smiley
 

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Reply #27 - 01/21/11 at 02:50:24

bhagman   Offline
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FYI: First run of PCBs expected in tomorrow.  I'll post some snaps as soon as I get them.

b
 
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Reply #28 - 01/24/11 at 21:33:39

Alex   Offline
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Hi All,

Is the intent of "Option 2" to run the board on a 3.3V rail or is it just to have 3.3V handy for powering other parts?
 
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Reply #29 - 01/24/11 at 21:39:47

bhagman   Offline
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The intention is to have 3.3V power available for peripherals/components/shields, etc.

b
 
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